In Pakistan’s core, deep between the giant peaks of Himalayas and Karakoram ranges, the Deosai National Park is an extremely vast landscape. It is spread over 1325 square miles, almost tree-less and incredible scenic beauty and peacefulness is its main attraction. Whilst Dessi is acknowledged for the wonderful flowers that cover the landscape in the summer and free roaming animals; only the winter coat offers a unique and equally fascinating expression.
During the winter expeditions to the Deosai are not for the weak hearted. Suddenly, the entire vista transforms into a giant white canvas, covered with a fresh layer of snow that surrounds the area and makes the place look like another world’s planet; which is such a great sensation for those who are looking for peace of mind or a challenge. Amongst the awe-inspiring heroes my attention goes to Khalid Mahmood, a professional trekker with a passion for winter Deosai’s wilderness.
Mahmood’s expedition started with methodical arrangement and assurance. At the extreme cold with the temperature possibly dipping below the freezing point and with the trail getting very difficult with the presence of heavy snow, no detail is left unnoticed. Required gear such as cold-resistant clothes, strong boots, and an expedition involving extreme weather conditions will be needed for surviving in this cruel place.
Beginning from the small town of Skardu, Mahmood trudges on a course towards the heart of Deosai for five days. With each move, he dances to the core of nature’s raw beauty, utilizing his skills to cross broad open plains and wade through winding valleys ground by ice of antiquity. As he marches on through the winter, he finds himself amid a diverse wildlife specially adapting to the difficult conditions of the season with agile snow leopards and hungry ibexes feeding in the snow.
By the time darkness falls, Mahmood needs to camp in the quietness provided by the valley, with the peaks that stand like sentries towering over a star-studded sky. Although the wind chill is freezing, the stillness of the wilderness strikes him as he is the only one howling which is rarely interrupted by the wind blowing on a bare landscape.
Days changing into nights is just a part of Mahmood’s struggle as he keeps going far ahead, testing his limits of both body and mind. With each morning breaking, he feels the excitement and resolve is boosted to go beyond Deosai’s fields of snow. A large space of nature overwhelms him, making him mindful of his place in the bigger and tremendous fabric of nature.
Finally, after five days of arduous trekking, Mahmood reaches his destination: visiting the opposing side of Deosai. Heading up a frosty slope, his eyes sweep the distance that is lost up to the most distant snow-capped horizon, a way to life found amidst adversity. At that particular point, in the midst of the unspoiled beauty of nature, Mahmood experiences the profound tranquility and the whole-fulness that is inherent in the act of wild falling in love.
On his way back to civilization, Allahdin carries not only the memories of the previous winter in Deosai. Despite the fact that it has been a trying enterprise both physically and mentally, this adventure has left an indelible imprint on his soul, gently reminding him of the import of the endeavor to preserve and protect the last wilderness areas of the world.
The human soul seeks refuge in places like Deosai even though the world seems to have become the noisiest and the most chaotic place. On this lonely planet, such places offer shelter and inspiration to the brave travellers who are ready to be consumed by the untamed beauty of these places. Loud and clear, the wild’s calling will reverberate throughout Mahmood’s heart, inviting him back to the snowbound wilderness of Deosai for another thrilling adventure.
